There is more to soil than meets the eye!

Buying topsoil is not as simple as it may seem. Here we offer some advice and considerations to keep in mind when deciding what materials will suit your project best. 

Topsoil is the uppermost layer of soil, which is high in nutrients and organic matter. At Country Supplies, we stock two types of top soil; Grade A and Grade B. It can be used for making new beds, borders, raised beds or as a base for lawns, where the natural soil is poor or non-existent.

Quick facts

• For laying lawns you will need at least 10cm (4in) layer of top soil
• New beds will need about 20cm (8in) or more
• Topsoil is available in 2grades: Grade A and Grade B
• Good quality top soil should meet British Standards 3882:2007

Why buy topsoil?

You may need to buy in topsoil if the existing soil is poor, damaged or if the space to be gardened has no natural soil, such as a courtyard or patio garden.

Where to use topsoil

Many gardens have poor soil, such as those found behind new-build homes, where the natural topsoil has been stripped away during the construction process. Topsoil can be used to cover the ground, to create new beds, borders or to provide a base for turf laying or sowing grass seed. In paved gardens where there is no access to soil, topsoil can be used in raised beds for growing many plants, including vegetables.

Product choice

Topsoil is generally available to buy in three different grades: premium, general-purpose grade and economy grade.

• Grade A: This can be expensive but should not bring in weed seeds. High in fertility, this loamy soil has good structure and is commonly used to build up flower borders or create new beds, while nurseries use it in compost mixes for container grown plants
• Grade B or General-purpose grade: This can be bought in differing screen size grades. Also good for making new beds or borders, or as a base for sowing new lawns. Coarser grades are particularly useful for turf laying while finer grades are good for top dressing lawns 

Buying topsoil

To avoid later problems, it is best to check the topsoil before buying it. All of our soil at Country Supplies is checked and screened but if you for some crazy reason are going elsewhere, look out for high stone content, thick fibrous roots, weeds and contaminants such as glass and brick. Inspection will enable any concerns you may have to be discussed before purchasing it.

Ask the supplier where it is coming from and whether it all has the same origin (building sites are often used as a source and the quality can be variable). If the supplier has had soil analyses undertaken request a copy. If they claim it is good and state facts and figures request these details in writing.

The following criteria (taken from BS3882: 2007 Specification for Topsoil) can be used as a guide against any analysis report a supplier offers you.

Premium grade

• pH = 5.5-7.8
• Phosphorus (P) Index min = 2
• Potassium (K) Index min = 2
• Magnesium (Mg) Index min = 1

General purpose grade

• pH = 5.0-8.2
• Phosphorus (P) Index min = 2
• Potassium (K) Index min = 2
• Magnesium (Mg) Index min = 1

Note that imported topsoil can sometimes introduce invasive plants, such as Japanese knotweed and couch grass to the garden. Inspect  the soil for signs of weed roots or shoots. Weed roots are often white and fleshy, sometimes with a brown covering, unlike the brown, dry, fibrous roots of trees and shrubs.

Travertine Q & A

After our last blog talking about considerations in laying Travertine Paving, we have been inundated with questions about Travertine, largely "what is travertine?".

Q. What is travertine?

A. Travertine belongs to the larger family of stone called limestone, which is also known as calcium carbonate. Travertine is a type of limestone that has had additional heat and pressure applied to it by the earth’s crust. It is formed by minerals dissolved in ground water, which are then deposited on the earth’s surface by rivers, natural springs, or geysers.

Q. What colors does travertine come in?

A. Travertine comes in many different natural colors including beige, brown, gray, and gold. There may also be slight undertones of green, red, and rust, depending on the origin of the stone and the minerals inherent in the specific selection. The color of travertine is the result of iron compounds and other organic impurities.

Q. What does the finished surface of travertine look like?

A. Travertine is available in four main finish options: polished (shiny), honed (matte), brushed (textured), and tumbled (textured). The type of finish given to travertine determines how shiny the surface will be. Polished surfaces are the shiniest, while tumbled surfaces reflect the least amount of light. Polished and honed surfaces are flat and smooth, while brushed and tumbled surfaces are flat and textured. The most common finish for travertine is honed.

Q. Where can I use travertine?

Travertine has been used as a building material for thousands of years. Today, travertine is used for flooring, wall cladding on buildings, showers, wall coverings and counter tops.

Q. What should I consider before choosing travertine?

A. Travertine is a material that comes naturally with holes and pores. These pores allow for efficient heat transfer, but do not retain heat; this allows the stone to remain cool to the touch. Many travertine options come with pores that are filled with a cement based filler prior to finishing. These fillers will eventually be removed over time, depending on wear and traffic.

Country Supplies recommends using a cement based grout or filler to refill these pores and reseal your tile if you find that the original filler has worn through. Since travertine is a natural stone, the variation and frequency of these pores will vary. We have done our best to sort, select, and grade these tiles to the appropriate standards.

Q. How durable is travertine tile?

A. Travertine has been counted on for centuries by cultures across the globe to last as flooring, wall tile, and other surfaces. Although travertine is susceptible to acidic substances and metal abrasion, it remains to be a surface to be counted on to look great for years, given that a cleaning and maintenance regimen is incorporated to make sure it retains its original look. Sealing the surface of travertine with an impregnator can help do this, and will make maintenance much easier.

Q. Are sealers really necessary?

A. Absolutely. Travertine is a porous material, which means that any liquids which spill onto the surface tend to leech into the body of the travertine. This can negatively affect how your travertine will look over time. A sealer, or an impregnator as it is also known, can make sure that any materials remain on the surface of the tile, until you clean them off, of course. This is the best way to make sure that your travertine retains its original appearance for as long as possible. Ask a Country Supplies  Expert which products to use, and how often you need to re-seal your tile. Always read the labels of the products you buy, take safety precautions where necessary, and follow instructions carefully.

Q. What’s the best way to keep travertine tile clean?

A. The best way to keep travertine clean is to remove dirt, grit, and other materials that are tracked in from outdoors. Many of these substances can cause minute scratches on the surface of your travertine which can become noticeable over time. So, it’s best to make sure that the surface of the travertine is clear with a damp cloth, soft broom, or vacuum as regularly as you can. Clean up liquid spills immediately, particularly if they are acidic in nature. Fruit juice is particularly problematic, as is coffee and red wine because of their tendency to stain. Even if you’ve sealed your travertine, it’s a good idea not to take any chances. Clear spills right away. Don’t use bleach, vinegar, or any harsh acidic-based cleaners, as these will degrade the surface of your travertine over time.

Q. What’s the best way to remove stains from travertine tile?

A. If a stain occurs on your travertine tile, cleaning it up is a fairly simple procedure. The reason travertine is susceptible to staining is the same reason stains are fairly easy to remove – travertine is porous. A procedure called ‘poulticing’ is a great way to remove stains because it draws the stain up from your travertine and into another material – a mixture of a reducing agent soaked into a cloth or paper towel is the most basic variety of poultice. The best methods should always be measured against the kind of stain you have. Ask a Country Supplies Expert for advice on what procedure to use based on the type of material that has stained your travertine.

Hope that clears it all up for you! :)

Considerations for Travertine Paving

Whether you’re a homeowner that is a seasoned veteran of the “DIY” method or you’re looking at hiring a professional to help you with renovations, it’s important to always know what methods are used for the installation process of any given function of your home.

Even if you’re not going to be doing the work yourself, it’s important to at least have an idea of what’s going on so that you can move forward with a little peace of mind. Peace of mind can go a long way towards establishing favor for your house. It’s with that in mind that you should definitely look into how travertine pavers are installed inside and outside of the home.

There are currently two methods that are commonplace with this type of paving, and each option relies on its own set of tools and sequences to get done properly. If you’re not familiar with either one, than you’ll want to look at the following travertine installation techniques before you try your hand at this or hire someone to do it for you.

The Two Methods are:

Dry Set
The first option that we will discuss briefly is called dry set. This is a highly recommended option that is often times touted as being far easier to get done than the other option, but it really is a matter of preference.

The process requires compacting soil that is not too damp or dry, as either option will cause issues with the overall process. Once this is done, a border is created and sealed off before pavers are set down.

Once pavers are set in the area, sand is added as a finishing touch. After this is done, polymeric sand is utilised to compact the pavers even more. A compactor can be utilised to push down on the tiles after they are placed evenly in an area and then swept clean.

This of course is a simplified explanation. Compacting soil then adding gravel as well as sand before laying tiles and then running a compactor over it requires more in depth research, but for the sake of this brief article, the steps are overtly simplified.

Mud Set
When it comes to the second option, many aren’t so quick to recommend it. However, many that work with travertine in general find that this option can work as well as the other.

This option requires a concrete surface to be down first, than an addition of mud is placed on top. The subfloor will receive a bonding agent, then grout, then the pavers will go on top of them. Each piece will get a slight nudge and tap with a hammer with care to ensure that nothing is broken.
Light grout is sometimes added to the joints, and in time this becomes set.

The above 2 ways to install pavers is simplified, and should be investigated further. Each option has several steps to get done, and can take a great deal of time. It’s important to employ patience when attempting this, and if you’re not sure as to what you’re doing, hire a professional that can help get things moving forward the right way.

Check out our travertine range here 

 

 

(From BALI)

Brits are a nation of keen gardeners and spend on average four to five hours a week in their outdoor spaces, according to the UK Landscaping & Garden Trends Report by Houzz.co.uk, the world’s leading platform for home renovation and design.

Almost a third of UK homeowners (31%) will undertake a garden project this year¹, with 28% planning to landscape or upgrade their grounds.
 
The report, which surveyed over 2,200 UK homeowners on Houzz², affirmed that gardening is very much a national hobby. The majority of the respondents (67%) agreed that tending to their plots was the number one thing they enjoyed doing in their garden, ahead of relaxing (60%) and eating (43%). As enthusiastic gardeners, those upgrading their outdoor spaces plan to plant lots of greenery, including flowers (75%), bushes (61%) and trees (36%). However, since maintenance is a key concern, 44% of upgraders with a natural lawn have decided to reduce the size of, or replace it as part of their renovations. Of those, one in ten (11%) are replacing with artificial grass and 52% are opting to pave over.
 
With the majority of gardens likely outsizing the average size of a UK house³, Brits are making good use of their gardens. The majority of those upgrading their gardens (62%) want their garden to integrate with the rest of the home, while just under half (49%) want to create an outdoor space for entertaining. To make their gardens fit for social gatherings, Brits are furnishing their spaces with products such as benches (34%), BBQs (28%), fairy lights (26%) and patio heaters (11%).
Having a stylish and beautiful garden is the most important design aspect for Brits (67%), but functionality is also a priority. Over one in 10 (12%) rate storage as a key functional aspect; tools (54%), bikes (42%) and even fridges (5%) are kept outside.

The report also revealed:

• Supporting wildlife: 39% of upgraders consider features that attract certain wildlife to be one of the most important design aspects when planning an outdoor renovation. 81% are including wildlife friendly plants, bird boxes or hives as part of their upgrade.
• Grow your own: Over half of upgraders (51%) plan to grow edibles in their gardens, with the research suggesting that growing vegetables is becoming more of a trend; 62% of upgraders versus 45% of non-upgraders are growing leafy veg.
• Flower power: When it comes to flowers, lavender (55%)  is the preferred choice for those upgrading their gardens. Roses (40%) and daffodils (39%) are second most popular.
• Flooding damages: Over a quarter of people updating their gardens in the South West (28%) and Wales (27%) are trying to remedy problems associated with flooding and/or drainage to a greater extent than other regions.

Almost a quarter (24%) of those going ahead with an upgrade are doing so after finally finding the financial means. The majority of the respondents (61%) are setting aside a budget of less than £2,500 for their outdoor project, with over a fifth (22%) aiming to keep costs under £500. Forty-four percent are hiring a professional to help them with their project. 

Tips for your perfect lawn.

 (Article Credit to Helen Yemm)

With the Wimbledon tennis championships about to begin, many of you will be focusing on the perfect grass courts. So, despite my distaste for lawn nit-pickery and being the defensive owner of what can best be described as a ''laissez-flower'' version of the traditional British greensward, this week I will list seven better-class-of-lawn basics, starting with the most important.

1 Straight edges should be dead straight – use taut string, a proper half-moon edger and a plank. Curves should be broadly sweeping – for instant chic, iron out the nibbles caused by overhanging plants: laying out a sun-warmed garden hose and assessing things from an upstairs window is helpful. Every time you mow – and even when you haven't time – using edging shears to crisp up lines works wonders. Aim to keep front-row plants clear of the gully created by your smart edges and they will stay that way.

2 Use the right mower On dead-level lawns and on dry grass, properly maintained cylinder mowers create pukka stripes and give the best and neatest cut. Rotary mowers function well even on wet grass and less-than-perfect turf. Mulch mowers save time and effort, help to feed the lawn and control weeds, but are hopeless on long wet grass and never produce a really smart finish.

3 Mow little and often, particularly during May and June, but never mow very short. Lumps and bumps will be scalped, which not only looks awful, but encourages moss and weeds. Mow throughout winter during fine weather if needs be, but keep the blade on a higher setting.

4 Occasional chores make a big difference Compaction is at the root of many lawn problems, and aerating and topdressing the lawn in spring is the best way to strengthen turf by improving drainage. Use a hollow-tine aerator and a sandy turf dressing. At the end of summer, rake out dead and weak grasses, moss and debris. Bin the mess, don't compost it. In autumn, sweep matted leaves off the lawn regularly.

5 Weed and feed In spring use a high-nitrogen feed (there are all-in-one weed/moss controller-and-fertiliser products for those who favour them, although spot-weeding or gouging out the odd thug may be all that is needed). At the end of summer apply a specific low-nitrogen autumn lawn feed to strengthen grass roots. Do not add weed-killed grass clippings to the compost for a couple of months after treatment. As a quick pick-me-up for a midseason lawn, try an occasional soluble ''green-up'' nitrogen lawn feed, applied by watering can or hose mixer. Evergreen Mow it Less will do this without giving it a surge of growth.

6 Don't water during dry spells Remember that lawns always perk up within days of a good heavy shower.

7 Be realistic about trees Don't imagine you can achieve perfect grass by constantly reseeding under the dense canopy of trees. This is one place when even the most obsessive perfectionist should give up. However, lawns that have become weak and thin can be over-seeded in early autumn – do it after raking out debris, scattering grass seed mixed with a little turf dressing.


Of course, if your lawn is beyond repair, give us a shout and order some of our Sovereign Regal turf on a next day delivery! 

Double Decking!

We've  been asked a lot recently about our garden decking and especially how it is installed and on what sort of base, so we thought a short guide maybe helpful to our customers.  Of course it’s also a plug about our products, our softwood pine decking is proving very popular is our range of hardwood products.  Interestingly sales for the Ipe decking is increasing month on month.

As a quick guide we suggest the following, of course there are lots of ways of accomplishing the same thing but this, we hope, is a good guide or at least gives you a few pointers.

Planning
Like any project, planning is the most important part, it shouldn’t be overlooked, what’s the old saying?  The five ‘P’s’:  Planning Prevents Pi – –  Poor Performance!

So, first make a rough drawing of your design, laying out pieces of wood to mark the edge of the planned decking always helps me to visualise how it will look.  Decking board at right angles helps to draw your eye into the house, board’s parallel show off the width of the decking.
It’s a good idea to make a scale drawing and also add the house walls, openings, obstacles etc.  If you’re attaching the deck to your house always make sure that the attachment point is 150mm below the damp proof course.  Make sure as well, you allow access to inspection covers and importantly don’t block air vents.

Measuring
Using your scale drawing calculate the area of the deck.  Divide the area of the deck by the size of the decking planks you are using.  Remember you will have to include spaces for expansion and drainage between planks, we tend to use 5mm as a guide.

If you need help calculating what is required please do contact us.

Ground Work
Decking is usually built on a framework supported by concrete footings.  It can either be simply placed at ‘ground level’ or if needed ‘raised’ using uprights.
First it’s a good idea to use pegs and string to set out the deck perimeter.  Clear all turf and vegetation and firm the ground if needed.  It’s a really good idea to lay weed inhibiting membrane down on the area at this point to stop any nasties coming through.

Decking Frame
The frame work should be put on concrete foundations.  You could lay concrete for this but slabs are a lot easier.  Slabs would normally be placed in a grid pattern about 1400mm apart to allow for adequate support for the joists.  If you have bad drainage or poor soil condition consider using poured concrete in holes of at least 300mm square.  Use a spirit level and try to make sure the deck slopes (away from the house) roughly 10mm for every meter.

Create the outer frame of the deck with pressure treated timber.  150mm x 50mm is ideal.  Where the timber touches the ground use a damp proof course membrane.
In our ‘ground level’ method these joists will simply be placed on the ground being supported by the concrete grid.  For the ‘raised’ method these will be supported by uprights, I recommend 90 – 100mm sq timber.

With the frame in place use at least 100mm screws and wood glue to fix it together.  If the decking is being attached to the house make sure you add plenty of spacers to allow for a drainage gap.  Stainless steel washers are excellent for this.  Next you will infill the outer frame with joists spaced at 400mm intervals.  These should be at right angles to the finished decking tiles or boards.  You could use off cuts of timber to create noggins in between the joists for extra strength.

Laying the Decking
Once your framework is complete and totally rigid you can start laying your decking boards or tiles.  Lay about 6 boards at a time, we have already mentioned an expansion gap and to accomplish this evenly I tend to use a decking screw as a spacer (remove after fixing).

A few notes on fixing your decking boards:

• Always use stainless steel or galvanised screws, there’s nothing worse than seeing rusty screw heads and stained decking boards.
• Always pre-drill your screw holes, without this you run a risk of splitting the timber.
• Screw the end of the boards first and then to every joist.
• If the decking boards are wider than the deck you must make sure you stagger the boards and that joints are over a joist.

Enjoy!

 Our friends over at  StoneMarket recently appeared at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show. They featured one of our favourite products their Avant-Garde paving. Check out the news below.




Stonemarket’s Avant-Garde paving will feature in The Pure Land Foundation garden in the Fresh category to be unveiled at this year’s RHS Chelsea Flower Show from 19th-23rd May 2015.

The futuristic, yet elegant Fresh garden has been designed by award winning garden designer Fernando Gonzalez.
Fernando aims to highlight the extraordinary possibilities for creating highly individual and bespoke designs that can be created using new and exciting methods.

The Pure Land Foundation was established by Bruno Wang, a London-based Chinese businessman, philanthropist and patron of the arts, to realise his charitable objectives. Pure Land in Buddhism is the realm of higher consciousness, peace and harmony.

Bruno felt an immediate synergy with Fernando’s garden design which incorporates numerous Eastern elements with an air of serenity.

The hard landscaping includes the ground plane of silver Avant-Garde paving in an interesting linear design.

Jennie Lumley, Stonemarket Brand Manager said: “We are delighted to be sponsoring The Pure Land Foundation garden and to be working with award winning garden designer Fernando Gonzalez. As a brand synonymous with cutting-edge design and innovative products it was important for us to be involved in this year’s show.

“Avant-Garde is a high-end natural stone covered by our new stone standard, a mark of superior quality and our ethical Fairstone trademark - the perfect choice for a garden promoting nature and wellbeing.”

Take a look at the garden in this video. https://vimeo.com/126790354

Tips for erecting your fence.

All gardens can be made more useful, more practical and more beautiful with a garden fence. A good fence offers a defined border to your garden, extra security and of course much needed privacy between you and your neighbours.

A fencing project can feel a little daunting, especially, if like me, you are not hugely practical and the most carpentry you have ever done is that spice rack you made for your mum back in woodwork class 100 years ago. 

So last week, when I decided to go ahead and take down the old wobbly abomination that I inherited with my new house last year, I went to ask some of the boys on the yard for their advice and we came up with this handy guide. (And as you will see from the pictures, it was a huge help.)
 

The right tools for the job.

First off, you need to have the tools to do the job. As most fencing comes precut to your required size, power saws and other terrifying tools like that are not often needed.

• Fence panels
• Fence posts
• Tape measure
• Spirit level
• Nails/Screws
• Saw
• Gloves
• Goggles
• Post hole digger
• Drill/screwdriver

 Personally, I was convinced to buy myself a power drill/driver. It made the whole thing much quicker and made my father in law happy that I had finally bought some tools.

It's the best bit! Getting rid of the old one!

If you’re installing a new fence where there wasn’t one previously then you will obviously want to skip ahead to “the process”. For those who have an existing fence then you will need to get rid of this old fencing first before you can begin erecting your new one. This isn’t a pretty or delicate process, you simply need to pry out the old wooden posts and demolish old panels. A big hammer and some brute force, or a father in law who used to play rugby for Cornwall is pretty useful.

Get it up!

The first thing to do is decide which kind of fence you want, with wooden fences you can get the pieces ready-made. When making the holes for the posts with your hole digging equipment you should make it around 2 feet deep (the bigger the posts the deeper you’ll need to go.
There are many different kinds of fence panels which you can install in your garden, some require brackets which allow you to affix the panel to the post whilst resting on gravel board at the bottom for a tidy finish. In some instances the panels will interlock with the posts but need to be snugly fitted to avoid any rattling.
When you fix in your posts you can do so with semi-dry or wet concrete. Wet concrete will require you to leave the mixture to set before you move on to panel installation – any movement in the post will ruin the precision of your fencing.

And that is about it. "Measure twice cut once!"
For all your fencing needs, give us a call on 01494 562406. Our experts here are happy to help and will let you know exactly what you need for the job. 

Raising the bar.

For centuries, people have been organic gardening in raised beds. Since these are merely garden beds where the soil level is higher than that on the paths around them, it may not be obvious what advantages they offer — except to gardeners with bad backs, that is, who don’t have to stoop as far to tend plants. Actually, though, raised bed gardening improves drainage, uses space more efficiently, increases yield, and simplifies the control of weeds and pests. These are things that benefit all gardeners, including those whose backs are in excellent condition.

Advantages of Raised Beds

Improved Soil
The soil in raised beds is usually superior to that in row gardens in part because it never gets stepped on (much less subjected to the weight of machines) and therefore does not get compacted. Beyond that, filling beds usually becomes an opportunity to get high-quality soil and to fine-tune the mix of fertiliser and amendments. This is a more affordable (and therefore attractive) prospect than it might at first seem since none of these additions get wasted on or in paths: all the good stuff goes into the beds themselves.

Improved Drainage
Raised garden beds are made to order for those whose native soil drains either too quickly or too slowly. The mere fact of being raised improves drainage in clay soils, but the real kicker is that you can mix the soil to your own specifications, creating a fine loam even where clay or sandy soil prevails.

Increased Yield
A raised bed warms up more quickly than does the surrounding soil in spring, so it’s possible to plant in them earlier than in a flat bed. The light soil improves the movement of both water and air, and roots can spread out in search of nutrients more easily than in compacted dirt. It’s therefore possible to plant a raised bed more densely than one would the same amount of space in a traditional garden, which translates into higher yields.

Yields increase also because more of the garden can be planted than in conventional gardens. A traditional garden laid out in narrow rows devotes over half its space to paths. Raised beds require either wide rows or enclosed beds, both of which can cut the amount of space used by paths by a third to a half. As a result, more of the garden can actually be used to grow things, rather than to walk around them.

Simplified Weed & Pest Control
The dense planting in a raised garden makes weeding difficult, so it’s a good thing that it also crowds weeds out. The walls of most raised beds create at least a partial block to many blowing seeds and to most rhizomous plants. Where aggressive weeds are a problem, raised beds can be established on top of a layer of weed cloth, blocking roots out completely. When sequential planting and cover crops are used, ensuring that there is no bare dirt for weeds to colonise, weed problems drop off to almost nothing.
Other pests can also be more easily controlled in a raised bed. Rodents can often be blocked-out below with metal screens, and birds from above with netting or row covers. Of course, any garden can be covered, but since raised beds are usually small and intensively planted, doing so is easier than in a large, conventional garden. Snails and slugs can’t easily find their way into raised beds, and are more easily located and removed once they do make it.

Easy Access
Even those who don’t have back problems can appreciate stooping less or not at all when they garden. For those who do have back problems, (or knee problems, or any of a dozen other physical limitations) the raised bed can make the difference between gardening and not gardening. Permanent enclosed beds, built to the correct height and width (usually about two feet high and three wide) make it possible to garden from a wheelchair. Large timbers provide room to sit down right next to the growing space, without kneeling or squatting, saving wear and tear on knees and other joints.

Get Oak Sleepers here:

Please don't Spot Bed our Paving :(

So here at Country Supplies we have a huge range of top quality paving products at great prices so it really upsets us when we see the dreaded "Spot Bedding" technique being used.

Basically it is a lazy method that may be quicker but in the long run will cause you problems and ruin the look of your brand new patio in a matter of months. Forget about what your builder might tell you or when you have seen done on TV, spot bedding doesn't work because:

it leaves voids beneath the flags, making them more likely to fracture when you step on them the voids can allow surface water to accumulate, leading to subsidence and rocking the voids provide a ready-made home for bugs, especially ants who will then move into your house correcting any rocking flags requires the old mortar to be broken out and disposed of it is often more expensive than solid bedding it often results in damp patches appearing on porous flagstones, especially sandstones  While we understand that sometimes it might seem easier to use the spot bed method, don't expect any sympathy from us when it all goes Pete Tong. You've spent money on a beautiful product. Take the time to do the job properly and enjoy your outside space for years to come.

It's Turfing Time!

It is worth spending time on the soil preparation because you cannot go back to it once the turf has been established. Taking that little extra time at this stage can save hours to weeks of work in renovation at a later date.

• Always dig over or, preferably, deep rotavate the area to be turfed. If the top soil is not the best quality, or of insufficient volume, Country Supplies can provide Grade A Top Soil to add to existing. It is best to use screened loam as there will be no stones or clods which will make the raking out job much easier.
• It is important that the prepared site is free from weeds, seeds, stones, clods or any other debris. Hard, lumpy objects can prevent simultaneous rooting and it is most important that the grass takes evenly, as stressed plants can be overtaken by weeds or weed grasses or even die completely if deprived of contact with the base soil.
• Once you have created a smooth, consolidated surface to the desired contours, we would recommend application of a preturfing fertiliser, which we are able to supply if required. When this is done you are ready to receive your turf. This will be delivered in square metre rolls.

Laying Your New Country Supplies Lawn

At Country Supplies, each load is harvested to order. The tools you will require to lay your lawn are a shallow tine rake, scaffold planks, a sharp knife and an edging iron.

Place the rolls of turf in a convenient position for laying. Using your rake, just break the surface of the soil to form a tilth, pulling the rake towards you. Position your first row of turves, making sure that the ends are butted very close together. Use your sharp knife to shape the ends and conserve off-cuts for patching in.

When the first row is laid, place the scaffold plank on top. This will do three jobs:

• Act as a straight edge for your next row.
• Avoid indentations made by walking on the newly laid turf.
• Evenly distribute the compression weight for good soil to turf contact.

 Rake the next area to receive turf, using the same pressure and direction on the rake. When starting the next row, start half a turf in to stagger the joints to prevent long gaps if shrinking occurs. When the line is complete, move the planks on to it and carry on in this way until the lawn is complete.
Start watering in as soon as possible, preferably within an hour of laying. In dry conditions, water morning and evening until well rooted and thereafter as grass indicates requirements.

The Highest Quality Sandstone

We have been working with the experts over at StoneMarket for years and they always supply us with top quality product. Recently they have introduced a new standard which they use to test the quality of Indian Sandstone. Read all about it below.

Stonemarket’s stone expert Rory Kendrick discusses the popularity of Indian sandstone and how landscapers, installers and garden designers can assess the quality of the stone they select in order to avoid performance issues.

Indian sandstone has become increasingly popular over recent years. It’s an absolutely stunning product associated with a high-end luxury look and customers put a great deal of perceived value or prestige in having a natural stone patio.

However, there are many hundreds if not thousands of different types of sandstone available as paving in the UK and they all vary greatly in looks and performance. Many of the more commonly available varieties come from Rajasthan in India, or Shandong and Sichuan provinces in China.
Sandstones can appear the same when displayed at a merchant or in a brochure, but they do have different properties and can perform very differently when installed. Laboratory testing gives you a full picture of the technical quality of stone.

There are three key factors that must be considered when purchasing stone to be installed as paving in the UK and these are, water absorbency, flexural strength and frost resistance.

A stone with high water absorbency will not only turn green, (a common consumer complaint with sandstone patios) but may also be more susceptible to frost action which will degrade the stone.
In terms of flexural strength, a stone with poor strength means that the product could be easily damaged in transit, during the installation process, or simply by everyday use.

It’s also important to consider frost resistance. A stone that loses strength when subjected to repeated frosts is far more likely to fail.

There is a British Standard that covers these issues. The design and installation standard BS7533 part 12 covers the technical performance of stone, for example it provides guidance regarding the maximum water absorbency for product supplied to class 2 is 2.5%.

But not all the sandstones on the market meet the British Standard. We undertook testing on a range of stones available on the market at our in-house laboratory and found only 50% met or exceeded the British Standard.

Therefore, according to our testing, half of the stones readily available on the market are not technically up to scratch. This could cause a wide range of issues for landscapers and installers.
To ensure you select stone which is technically up to standard, we’d advise using a supplier that tests all its products and can supply you with an in-date test certificate, or declaration of performance.
If a supplier is unable to supply these details there’s no guarantee that their stone is technically sound.
At Stonemarket we’ve tested all our stone to be 100% sure that every single one meets or exceeds the British Standard.

Look out for ‘The Stone Standard’ trademark which indicates the product has been tested.

Our friends at Melcourt have come out top in Which?'s guide to the best composts of the summer, check out the article below. 

Which? reveals the best composts for containersTests reveal a third of composts are Don't Buys

19 March 2015

We grew almost 1,000 Sunpatiens 'Spreading Corona' to find our Best Buy composts for containers

Which? Gardening’s compost tests have shown that a good compost is hard to find. Out of the 27 composts for containers tested, only three were Best Buys, while nine, a third of the total, were Don’t Buys.
We know from years of testing that colourful bags and big name brands do not guarantee a good compost, nor does a high price tag. You can’t open the bags to look at the compost in the garden centre and even if you did you would have no idea whether it would grow good plants.
Every year Which? Gardening tests a wide range of composts and last summer we grew almost 1300 plants for four months, choosing bedding plants and vegetables that we know our members enjoy growing in pots and hanging baskets. This year we found many of the composts failed to grow healthy plants and produced very disappointing displays, although we had three Best Buy composts for container plants.

Nine Don't Buy composts for container plants 2015

Many of the Don’t Buy composts for container plants contain fertilisers that were meant to last the summer, but we found them to give poor, weak plants that struggled to grow and flower, and looked very unattractive. Some had pale green, yellow or even purple leaves, and the stems were straggly with few leaves, while our Best Buy plants were lush, dark green mounds of foliage, covered in flowers.
Our expert advised this was because the composts didn't release enough nutrients, leaving the plants starved. He told us that claims of compost that have enough feed to last all summer are ambitious, given so many factors can effect a plant's growth, such as the temperature, how much it is watered or how much rainfall the pot is receiving, and where the pot is, such as on a sun-trap patio, a greenhouse or in a shady corner.

Peat-free Best Buys composts for container plants 2015

We were very pleased that among the Best Buys were two peat-free composts. This is good news for everyone worried by the ecological and environmental damage caused by peat extraction. Peat is due to be phased out of composts for home users over the next few years, but reliable peat-free composts have been hard to find.
The third Best Buy also came out top in Which’s sowing seeds and raising young plants tests, so is a good all-round buy.
To make sure you have stunning pots of plants covered in flowers to brighten up your patio, or a bumper crop of veg, look at our Best Buy composts for containers and check out our full results table.

Ipe Decking

Summer is just around the corner so whether you already have decking in your garden which perhaps is in need of revitalising , or you are thinking about installing decking to make the most of those potentially sunny evenings coming up, here are some tips on how to make your hardwood deck look beautiful and last longer. 

Whether you buy Ipe, Cumaru, Garapa or Tigerwood decking, you need to apply a deck finish if you want to maintain the deep, varied and rich tones of your hardwood deck.  I recommend Rustins Decking Oil.  Rustins is easy to use and one coat every 6 months to a year is plenty.  How often Rustins treatment is needed depends on whether your deck receives direct sun, rain and much foot traffic.

How easy is Rustins to install?

All you need is an old T-shirt ripped in half, a pad for your knees, rubber gloves so your hands aren’t stained, and Rustins.  Rustins recommends 2.5l for every 35 square meters.

Wash the deck thoroughly with Rustins Decking Cleaner and allow it to dry.  I prefer to wait 24-48 hours after cleaning.  Applying any finish to a wet deck will cause problems.  The Rustins finish cannot penetrate the Ipe decking and the water creates a barrier to penetration.  This can make the surface tacky and will collect dust and dirt.  Shake the Rustins thoroughly.

I fold the T-shirt several times and dip on section into the Rustins can and rub the oil into the Ipe decking boards.  You don’t need a lot of “elbow grease.”  Just be sure to rub the Rustins oil in so that there is no excess.  Once again, the excess will become tacky or sticky and collect dirt and dust.  Applying one coat will take about 45 minutes for 350 square feet.  I usually let the deck dry before I let kids and dogs run across.

Any unused Rustins can be saved.  Just be sure to store the can away from heat.

Why Rustins?
Rustins new Decking Oil is a hard-wearing, water resistant oil that retains the colour of the decking. It contains ultra violet light inhibitors and biocides which protects the oil from mould and algae growth.

Yesterday we had a visit from Andy Chalmers, MD at Melcourt. We have been their top seller in the compost business for years and it is always a pleasure to see him. 

On this visit we learned about a new product SylvaGrow which we will soon be stocking. SlyvaGrow s a professonal compost whick Melcourt have now made available to the public. It recently won the Which? Award for best compost product, so it has to be good. And if you don't want to take our word for it, check out Michelle Chapman's blog below. 

 




Freelance writer Michelle Chapman is based in Chippenham and runs http://vegplotting.blogspot.co.uk. She came to see is a while back and, after her visit and undertaking her own trials, wrote the following about Melcourt and SylvaGrow®.

“Like many gardeners I try to be peat-free. It’s not always successful – for instance I still have to get it right with seed composts – but on the whole my results have been OK so far. Sadly a couple of years ago I found the gardeners’ usual peat-free of choice – New Horizon – had become less consistent and more twiggy in its constitution. Boo hoo.

So last year I was pleased to find a new product on the market – SylvaGrow® – which is produced locally by Melcourt Industries Ltd just outside Tetbury. Naturally I invited myself along to see for myself, where their Technical Director, Catherine Dawson kindly showed me around.

It turns out this is the product many peat-free nurseries have used for years and was the source of their bewilderment when ordinary gardeners like me admitted their struggle to go peat-free. Some nurseries had begun to sell-on the product they used as customers had cottoned on they had access to a better product not yet available to the public. Melcourt responded, and so last year Sylvamix® (the product used by nurseries) was introduced to the retail market as SylvaGrow®.

The bulk of Sylvagrow® is derived from wood fibre and bark waste from the UK’s timber industry, which adds a virtuous dash of recycling into the mix. Some coir is added to these after sufficient time has allowed the wood fibre to undergo its own composting process. Unlike many peat-free composts on the market, this one doesn’t contain any green waste. Catherine told me they’d found it too inconsistent for use in this particular product.

The result is a much finer compost than most peat-free products I’ve used. I was assured that during the mixing process the composition is tested at regular intervals to ensure consistency.
My visit ended with a couple of bags loaded into my car for a spot of home testing. So how did I get on?

My first observation was I didn’t need to water my pots so often – every couple of days instead of every day. You may remember we had quite a hot and dry summer last year, so that’s pretty impressive.

I also found it retained a more open structure throughout the season and didn’t develop the usual hard crust followed by moss on the top. It’s been a wonderful product to handle and use for both my pots of flowers and tomatoes. All my plants stayed healthy throughout the season and produced lots of flowers and fruit.

This year Melcourt have added more products to their range for gardeners – Ericaceous compost, plus pine bark mulch and flakes. The company was formed in 1983, so they have a lot of experience in producing these and other products such as play/equestrian surfaces, soil improvers and biofiltration media. Catherine studied soil science at university, so has found herself in the perfect job related to her studies!

It’s also come out as a top performer in Which?’s compost trials, so it’s not just me reporting good results with it.”

Thanks Michelle!

Some allotment tips from our mates at The NSALG

Allotments are wonderful things, but they must be cared for and nurtured in order to get the best out of them. The type of soil you have, the way the sun hits your plot and direction of the wind will all play a part in the types of plants you’ll be able to grow. It is often worth having a chat with some of the longer established allotment holders as they will know instantly what does and doesn’t work on your site, thus saving you time and effort.

If however you need to clear your site of weeds before you can even see the soil, then we recommend not using a rotavator as some weeds, particularly the more persistent (couch grass, docks, nettles, bindweed) will be chopped up and will spread and multiply as a result. It may seem tedious, but cut your weeds back to stubble height and then dig them out, also regularly hoeing in dry weather is the best way to kill off weeds.

Traditionally allotments are set in rows, on a three year crop rotation system (brassicas, roots and then ‘other veg’), but today the style of allotment planting is much looser – with people choosing to mix up their beds, breaking up the formality of the rows. It is really up to the gardener to choose what works well for them, but the notion of rotating your crops is worth sticking to – as it helps to keep the soil in good condition and certain types of pests and diseases at bay.
Raised Beds

It is also worth considering what type of crops you intend to grow, as some will take years to establish and will need a bed to themselves for the duration of their life (and as such will not be included in the rotation system) – for example, asparagus beds can last up to 20 years, cane and bush fruit are long term fixtures, requiring cages and netting, while fruit trees can outlive many generations of plot holder. Perennials such as rhubarb and globe artichokes also need to be thought about.
If your soil isn’t ideal, or you’re not sure the land you’re growing on has been treated well in the past, then raised beds are an excellent option. They allow you to access your crops easily, especially handy for weeding and watering and you can choose the type of soil you want to grow in.

Welcome to the new Country Supplies Blog.

Country Supplies over the last 20 years has built its reputation and loyal customer base by reliably delivering high quality, consistent products, economically to both site and home. With an unrivalled range and stock holding this has meant it has grown into a true one stop shop for both Landscaping and the Fencing trade alike. After constant investment Country Supplies can offer an unparallelled delivery service that unlike most online companies does not rely on cumbersome pallet truck deliveries. Operating a 10 strong fleet of delivery trucks we aim to offer a next day delivery service with in a 40 mile radius of High Wycombe.
We believe that there’s more to service than just being dropped of to your home. All orders are confirmed by phone; trained staff will check orders and help if technical information is needed. We then arrange delivery dates and which of our trucks would be most suitable. Finally we take payment.
We are more than happy to help you plan and organise any size project from a simple vegetable plot to bespoke paving for a new build house. Full after sales and technical back up is all part of our service.

Our blog is an opportunity for us to show off our latest products, deliver news of great offers, the latest trends in the world of landscaping and much more, so please say tuned for regular updates.